I had the privilege to attend FashionPhilosophy 2016, Poland’s Fashion Week in Łódź. Among the many talented designers, I had the pleasure to meet one of the favorites I saw there, a young designer, out of Krakow, Mateusz Pukło.
Jonathan: I want to congratulate you on a wonderful show, I hope your Dark Line is a tremendous success. When we spoke, you mentioned the most important aspect of your latest collection was the silhouette. Could you talk a little more about your creative process? How you start? When do you know a piece is ready?
Mateusz: Thank you very much for such a kind opinion, I am still getting many beautiful comments from people, I really appreciate it!
Indeed, the way of presentation of male silhouette was very important. I wanted to create very clear and consistent line of slender silhouettes. That is the reason you could watch on a runway a plenty of long, well-fitted coats of varied shapes and trousers with narrow trousers legs. One of my main aspects of “Dark Line” collection was to show an image of a strong and self-confident man in very dressy way.
It’s not so easy to describe my designing process but first step is some concept, idea, inspiration, something what makes that particular collection will be unique. Then I sit at a desk, take my pencils, paint, a massive quantity of paper, erasers, all the artistic stuff that is actually within reach and I start designing. It is very important to me to be focused on whole collection all the time. To think about collection as one entity. I search for various shapes and not so obvious combinations of textures, colors, etc. This process is never the same and depends on the concept of the particular clothing line. When I am sure enough of my designs, I start sewing. The final step is a hard assessment of the design for each silhouette as sometimes “real” clothing does not translate the same as on a piece of paper.
Jonathan: Preparing for a big show is quite a lot of work, for you what is the biggest challenge getting your work to the runway and what part of the whole experience is your favorite moment?
Mateusz: Yes, “quite” a lot! I think that the biggest challenge is to accomplish everything on time. When you are preparing to the runway you are an artist with deadline. I am too ambitious sometimes and I would like to do too many things on my own. It could be very stressful.
The best part of it is that I have huge opportunity to share my work with so many different people. All the photographers, stylists, models, fashion supporters, they are full of passion and energy. Together we are able to create amazing stuff and make beautiful memories!
Jonathan: In fashion, who inspires you? Any particular heroes?
Mateusz: Hah, I have no fashion “guru.” I guess because there is no need to look for an inspiration on catwalk or in other designer’s studio. All the time we are surrounded by various dimensions of life and we could be inspired by everything! Sometimes it comes unexpectedly and you need a couple of extra breaths to calm down.
Jonathan: As I am new to Poland, what can you tell me about the fashion scene here. What’s your opinion of it?
Mateusz: I think that the people in our fashion scene should help each other more! Together we may build better fashion reality. It is very sad that there is a lot of hidden envy in this fashion world. I hope it may change some day.
Jonathan: If the was one bit of advice you could pass along to others, what would it be?
Mateusz: As a designer you should never give up! You have to fight about your dream and future. There will be a lot of failures, it is normal but all the time we are gaining new experience. I believe in our young generation of polish designers and I wish them all the best!
Jonathan: I want to thank you, Mateusz, for taking the time to share a few thoughts with us. I wish you much success.
Mateusz: That was a huge pleasure to talk with you! Thank you very much!